A picture of two women, smiling in front of a white board with Punjabi written on it

Punjab Study Abroad Crash Course

Getting Around

Before coming to Chandigarh, I was very worried about how I would travel from place to place. As an American residing in Washington, D.C. I will say that while I tried to walk as much as I could Chandigarh isn’t a particularly walkable city. As a result, I recommend using rideshare services in metropolitan areas such as Chandigarh instead of public transport. Rickshaws are widely available, but I found InDrive and Uber to be the most reliable ways to travel in Chandigarh. InDrive is essentially the Indian version of Uber, but there are less safety features. On Uber, you are given an OTP verification pin that you must verbally relay to the driver before the driver is able to begin the ride. 

InDrive has much less accountability for its drivers, so the only information you have about the driver is their license plate number and their name. In addition, I’ve noticed that many family members may use the same InDrive account so the profile may not always match, or the license plate does not. In these cases, you must weigh the situation and decide whether to proceed with the ride. However, it is difficult to connect an international credit card to Uber and because there are less Uber drivers than InDrive drivers in the area, it takes much longer to get a confirmed ride. Generally, my rule was to take InDrive during the day and Uber at night. It is safe to use rideshare services alone during the day, but I would plan accordingly to be home before dark if you are alone just to be safe. I never had an Uber or InDrive driver in my time in Chandigarh that made me feel unsafe, but always remain vigilant and aware of your surroundings, especially as a lone female. 

International Credit Cards

While I was under the impression that my United international credit card would work in India, I quickly realized that this was not the case. Due to the security levels of foreign credit cards being lower, you often can’t use them in India. There were exceptions to this, for example, cafes such as Blue Tokai and Nomad in Chandigarh accepted foreign credit cards because foreigners often visited their establishments. In addition, I was also able to use my credit card in McLeod Ganj and Dharamshala in Himachal Pradesh because they were tourist destinations that received many foreigners, particularly Israeli tourists. However, as a rule, carry two to three thousand rupees in cash on you when going out for the day because you can never be sure where your credit card will or won’t be accepted. Make sure some of this cash is constituted by smaller bills, such as ten-, twenty-, fifty-, and hundred-rupee bills if a vendor doesn’t have much change. While the most used electronic payment forms in Chandigarh seem to be PhonePe and PayTM, I would try to set up Google Pay because PhonePe and PayTM require an Indian phone number and bank account. 

Getting Sick

Due to the difference in water and food, you will likely often have stomach issues throughout your trip. As a result, I suggest keeping the following remedies to treat yourself as needed. Pour a spoonful of Isabgol (Psyllium) in water and drink a full glass before eating anything for the day or 3-4 hours after eating if you are having constipation or diarrhea, it helps regulate your body’s stool production. If you have a bacterial infection that is causing loose bowel movements, then a three-day course of Azithromycin antibiotic will clear it up. If you are dehydrated, pour a spoonful of Oral Rehydration Salts in your water and drink throughout the day. All these remedies are available over the counter at your local chemist, which is the American equivalent of a pharmacy. 

Phone Plan

While I paid for a Verizon international phone plan, I would also invest in a Jio or Airtel Wi-Fi dongle. These portable dongles provide 24-hour Wi-Fi as long as you carry the palm-sized dongle in your pocket or bag after charging it at night. The combination of the Wi-Fi dongle and phone plan made sure I was never without the ability to call or message others in the case of an emergency phone number. On a slightly less serious note, I suggest getting a temporary Indian phone number if possible. For food or package delivery, an Indian phone number is usually necessary, and if you are used to the convenience of Grubhub and UberEATS or Amazon in the US, then you will most likely make use of apps such as Zomato for food and Flip Kart for packages.

Simran Bhathal, B.A. in International Affairs 2025

Sigur Center 2023 Language Fellow

India

A picture of women in head coverings facing away from the camera

Choosing to Study with AIIS

The American Institute of Indian Studies (AIIS) is an organization focused on promoting American scholarship on India and offers a myriad of language learning programs in South Asian languages. Lucknow, Jaipur, and Kolkata’s AIIS Language Centers are partner institutions of the Critical Language Scholarship offered by the State Department for Urdu, Hindi, and Bangla respectively. In addition to the languages I have mentioned above, AIIS has numerous other language centers across India ranging from Gujarat to Tamil Nadu which are not partner institutions of the CLS program. This past summer, I was studying Punjabi in Chandigarh, Punjab through AIIS from June to August. 

In this blog post, I want to discuss some features of the AIIS program that make them a great choice for American students who are interested in studying abroad in India. The program is extremely structured, with 4 hours of class per day and two one-hour one-on-one tutoring sessions with your instructor per week. On every other weekend, there are cultural trips to local heritage sites. For example, I visited Harmandir Sahib in Amritsar, Punjab. For the beginner to intermediate levels, the four hours of class are divided into the several different functions of language learning: reading, writing, listening, and speaking. While the classes and timings are extremely structured, what activities you complete in class vary day to day, so it does not become monotonous. While we work on listening several times a week, our listening materials vary from movie scenes to news segments. Over the course of eight weeks, an extremely detailed syllabus and every single skill needed for learning a new language is thoroughly covered. 

While the classes are rigorous and there is homework every day, there is ample time for exploring your city as well. Class begins at 9 AM and ends at 1 or 3 PM depending on if you have a personal tutoring session that day. As a result, you have many evenings and every other weekend of the program available to explore. In addition, AIIS also has a mid-term break where you have three days off. During my midterm break, I was able to travel to McLeod Ganj and Dharamshala in the neighboring state of Himachal Pradesh. Essentially, your language skills will progress exponentially, but you will also be able to take part in local culture and have opportunities to travel. 

AIIS staff are also incredibly helpful, caring people. From helping you sort issues with your host family to locating laundry services in your new city, they will do everything they can to help you acclimate to life in a completely different country. Towards the beginning of my program, I got stuck at a cafe with an almost dead phone and not enough money to cover the cost of my meal. The next day, my program teachers asked why I hadn’t called them because they’ve in fact helped students get out of similar situations in the past. While AIIS staff are your teachers, they often do much more than what is included in their job description because they want students to reach out to them in sticky situations. 

Through AIIS, my Punjabi skills progressed exponentially because of my in-class learning but I was also able to quickly acclimate to India because of the out-of-class learning as well. I highly recommend studying through the American Institute of Indian Studies if you are looking to study abroad in India because of the efficacy in the classroom and support outside of the classroom offered by the program. 

Simran Bhathal, B.A. in International Affairs

Sigur Center 2023 Language Fellow

India

Hong Kong Public Housing

Summer 2022 Research Fellow – Hong Kong’s Solutions to Housing Affordability Challenges: The Construction of Public Housing

Hong Kong Special Administrative Region of China is one of the world’s most prosperous cities. It is a coastal area of 1,106 km2 with a population of 7.41 million (World Bank, 2021).  This city has been rated by the Demographia International Housing Affordability report as the most unaffordable housing market in the world for 12 consecutive years.

To cope with the affordable housing challenge, the Government of Hong Kong has adopted mass public housing programs as key solutions since the 1950s. As of 2020, public housing represents 43.3 percent of the total housing stock. And 45 percent of the Hong Kong population live in public housing (Census and Statistics Department of Hong Kong, 2021).

Notably, there are two types of public housing, including public rental housing and subsidized sale flats. Public rental housing refers to housing estates that are built for and then rent to low-income residents at a price lower than the market rate. Subsidized sale flats consist of flats sold at a discounted price to middle-income households. Both types of public housing have specific eligibility criteria (e.g., limits on age, residence status, income level, ownership of any domestic property, total years of living in Hong Kong) and application processes that are set and managed by two entities in Hong Kong – the Hong Kong Housing Authority and the Hong Kong Housing Society.

Public housing features tall towers with many compact flat units while subsidized sale flats could be less dense compared to public rental housing. For public rental housing units, nearly half of them have a flat size of 30-39.9 m2, 16.5 percent have a flat size larger than 40 m2, and more than one-third have a flat size smaller than 30 m2. The average monthly rent ranges from HK$66/m2 to HK$83/m2 (around US$8-11/m2), depending on the location of the public rental housing estate. As a comparison, the average monthly rent of a private housing unit is estimated at HK$261-401/m2 (around US$34-52/m2) (Census and Statistics Department of Hong Kong, 2021a).

Over the decades of development of public housing in Hong Kong, there have been multiple block designs for public housing, such as slab blocks, harmony blocks, and “H” shape resettlement blocks. The Housing Authority nowadays further emphasizes the integration of green concepts and site-specific considerations into their design features. Some unique designs of public housing have even made them must-check places for photo taking in Hong Kong, such as Choi Hung Estate, which is pained in a striking rainbow palette, and Oi Man Estate, which has a quadrangular arrangement. In more recent decades, the construction of public housing estates also includes children’s playgrounds, car parks, and a shopping center (see the pictures from Tak Long Estate in the Kai Tak Development area below) that make things more convenient for residents.

Tak Long Estate

Nevertheless, we do observe two concerns about these public housing estates. One is that low-income groups living in the public housing estates stay in their community which might not be good for social cohesion. Another way to supply public housing units is to integrate public housing units with market-price housing units in the same building blocks. Such mix-income housing is designed to eliminate concentrated poverty in certain neighborhoods and against residential segregation. Second is that there used to be scandals about the living conditions in public housing estates, such as the contamination of potable water in Kai Chin Estate in 2015. These point to due considerations, such as social cohesion factors and safe drinking water, that the Government should take into account when designing and managing public housing.

References

Census and Statistics Department of Hong Kong. 2021. Housing in Figures 2021a. https://www.thb.gov.hk/eng/psp/publications/housing/HIF2021.pdf (Accessed Sept. 10, 2021).

Urban Reform Institute and the Frontier Centre for Public Policy. 2022. Demographia International Housing Affordability 2022 Edition. http://www.demographia.com/dhi.pdf (Accessed Aug. 10, 2022).

World Bank, 2021. Country Profile of Hong Kong SAR, China. https://data.worldbank.org/country/HK (Accessed Aug. 10, 2022).

 

 

Jingwen Zheng, Ph.D. in Public Policy Program 2024

Sigur Center 2022 Asian Field Research Fellow

Hong Kong SAR, China

Hong Kong Public Records Building

Summer 2022 Research Fellow – A Quick Guide to Navigate Archived Government Documents in Hong Kong

In some cases, scholars need to refer to certain government policy documents and reports to collect and/or verify certain information. Scholars may choose to conduct literature searches online, browse governments’ websites, etc. This blog aims to provide a quick guide for scholars who are interested in getting access to Hong Kong’s government documents, especially historical ones.

Make an access to information request

In Hong Kong, the “Code on Access to Information” serves as a formal framework for the public’s access to the information held and maintained by the government departments. This code clarifies the scope of information that can be made available either routinely or upon request. Based on this Code, scholars who want to learn the most recent or historical government documents can send information requests to Access to Information Officers in relevant departments. Their specific email addresses and phone numbers can be found on this webpage. Per my experience of communicating with different government departments, the reply time can be somewhere between a week or three weeks. A phone call would be the most efficient way of getting to know if the documents are available or not.

In addition, if one document is only available in paper versions, scholars can go to the public enquiry counter of the government department for in-person inspection at a selected date. The public enquiry counter can provide a photocopying service if needed. Additionally, the public can also just take photos of the documents they request to inspect by using their digital devices (e.g., phones). I found that seeking advice from the staff at the public enquiry counter is efficient and useful – they can direct you to the right person from the right sub-division of their department for more information.

Government Records Service

Nevertheless, each government department may not hold all policy documents and reports from earlier decades. The best place for looking for such information is the Government Records Service (GRS), an agency that aims to preserve and promote the documentary heritage of Hong Kong.

Scholars (or the public) can start by using the online catalog provided and managed by the GRS to search and identify government documents, reports, and/or maps in need (see picture below). To review one specific document, one has to register an account on the GRS’s website, make a reservation for that document, and then select a date/time that he or she can go to the Hong Kong Public Records Building for inspection. Note that now the GRS only opens 15 seat slots per day.

Government Records Service Website Page

When conducting a desk review of government documents at the GRS library, one may develop a new list of documents to be checked and reviewed. In such a case, scholars can use the computer at the GRS, log into their registered GRS account, and make a loan request online (this can only be done by using the GRS’s computers).  The staff there will help identify and prepare the documents immediately for one’s review and inspection. Nevertheless, when one document is defined as confidential, one will have to submit an access request, with the use of the documents clarified. Relevant government departments and the staff at the GRS will review the case and decide if they could grant access on a case-by-case basis.  The review and approval process can take up to a month.

A final note is that the GRS can also provide photocopying and/or digitization services at a set unit price; nevertheless, one can also take a photo of the document using one’s own digital devices (e.g., phones), as long as one signs a form and details the documents that he/she makes a digital copy.

 

Jingwen Zheng, Ph.D. in Public Policy Program 2024

Sigur Center 2022 Asian Field Research Fellow

Hong Kong SAR, China

 

 

Hong Kong Palace Museum

Summer 2022 Research Fellow – Discovering Chinese Art and Culture: A Visit to Hong Kong Palace Museum

The Hong Kong Palace Museum, located in the West Kowloon Cultural District, has recently become a popular must-check spot in Hong Kong. This Museum was officially open to the public in July 2022, a year that marks the 25th anniversary of the handover of Hong Kong from the United Kingdom to China. The Museum presents more than 900 treasures, mainly from the Palace Museum in Beijing, China. Many of the objects on loan are exhibited in Hong Kong for the first time, and some have never been presented to the public. This Museum aims to be a hub for cultural exchange between China and the World and, more importantly, to be the bond between mainland China and Hong Kong.

This Museum has nine galleries: five are designed around specific themes that help introduce the culture and history of the Palace Museum; two present art collections in Hong Kong and multimedia programs; and the final two are special exhibitions presenting Chinese art and also the art and treasure from other countries around the same theme for dialogue in culture. In the Museum, the visitors can appreciate the arts and treasures and enjoy the views of the Hong Kong Island skyline and Lantau Island.

I am most impressed by the “Nymph of the Luo River” (Southern Song copy) presented in the special exhibition, a painting based on a poem describing a romance story by Cao Zhi. Among all paintings that illustrate this poem, this version is vibrant as it shows many details that are not found in other versions (e.g., the nymph picking feathers and pearls). In earlier months, the Hong Kong Palace Museum also exhibited another Northern Song copy, allowing visitors to compare and identify their differences. We can find people visiting this Museum several times to observe the differences and further discussing their observations regarding these two copies in local friends’ circles and on personal blogs.

In addition, one gallery that presents treasures themed around horses in China and other parts of the world is fascinating too. Such gallery design allows visitors to observe, identify and compare different understandings and manifestations of horses in different cultures. In particular, we can find earthenware sculptures of horses and riders with “three-colors” (sancai) glaze in this gallery, a very exceptional achievement of horse art in the Han and Tang dynasties in China’s history (see two pictures below).

Tang San Cai I Tang San Cai II

In a nutshell, this Museum offers very unique and stimulating experiences in art and culture. From time to time, the content and theme of special exhibitions also change as well. So don’t miss out on this Museum when you have a chance to visit Hong Kong.

 

Jingwen Zheng, Ph.D. in Public Policy Program 2024

Sigur Center 2022 Asian Field Research Fellow

Hong Kong SAR, China

Taiwan’s Amazing Food Culture

group photo at a dinner table

Only 100 miles away from China, it would be easy to assume that Taiwan would only have Chinese food. While it is true that Taiwan’s cuisine shares a heavy resemblance to China, Taiwan’s eating scene is as rich as its culture and stands as a symbol of pride to many of its inhabitants. Over the centuries, Taiwan’s rich indigenous cuisines have combined with Fujian and Cantonese flavors, to create a new style of Asian cuisine, one whose rich umami flavor and sweet undertones welcome new opportunities for culinary exploration.

xiao long bao Chinese soup dumplings in a traditional bamboo steamer

Photo caption: Delicious soup noodles at one of Taiwan’s famous Din Tai Fung 鼎泰豐

At the same time, Taiwan’s global economy has invited millions of people from all over Asia, most of whom have brought along their tastes and flavors. Taiwan’s culinary environment is rich with global influences from Europe, Africa, and the Americas, not to mention local Asian cuisines from South, East, and Southeast Asia. No matter the appetite, be it Bolognese, Vindaloo, Injera, or Congee, a quick trip down the street is sure to satisfy.

Mark Warburton posing for photo with food

Photo caption: Modern Toilet Restaurant in Taipei, a poop and toilet inspired café! One of the many wacky themed restaurants around Taiwan

 

In big cities like Taipei, Taichung, and Kaohsiung, the economic and cultural hearts of the island, tastes from across the globe are as easy to find as bubble tea shops. In the rural west coast outskirts or the mountainous east coast villages, delicious Taiwanese barbecues and stews await more adventurous travelers.

bento box with tofu, greens, and other sides

Photo caption: Old-fashioned bento box meal for workers who used to cut wood on the old Alishan Forest Railway

 

Taiwan’s numerous night markets also provide plentiful appealing delights for tourists and locals alike. Even the convenience stores showcase a wide swath of healthy and tasty treats from all over the world, assuring that no matter the time or the place, you’ll never go hungry in Taiwan.

Unlike similar stores in the United States, Taiwan has given convenience stores a whole new meaning. On nearly every street corner of any major city, you’re bound to find a 7eleven, Hi Life, or Family Mart, waiting eagerly to satisfy your insatiable snack cravings, chips, candy, and drinks galore. Many convenience stores have eating areas with benches and seats for patrons to enjoy their snacks in place. Moreover, many of these stores also have premade dinners, fresh salads, and bite-sized breakfasts that make stopping in for a meal cheap and, well, convenient.

 
sausages for sale at a Taiwan Seven Eleven

Photo caption: Of course, no convenience store would be complete without rotisserie hotdogs. These ones in particular are cheese flavored!

 

However, to find the perfect example of Taiwan’s excellent food culture, look no further than the classic nighttime venue for locals and tourists alike: night markets, a classic amalgamation of outdoor feasting activities, combined into a single place for everyone to enjoy. Of course, besides the usual gamete of Taiwanese staple foods, including Stinky Tofu (臭豆腐), Sweet Potato Balls (地瓜求), Oyster Omelets (蚵仔煎), and Bubble Tea (珍珠奶茶), night markets attract a huge array of delightful foreign foods including Italian pasta, Indian Curries, and South American tamales, just to name a few.

Taiwanese shaved ice dessert

Photo caption: One of my favorite Taiwanese desserts: Taiwan Shaved Ice. This one here is mango flavored.

Imagine state fair snacks and games, farmers’ market produce, and flea market stalls, all clumped together in the same place, every night, 365 days a year. Night markets provide the perfect setting to try new treats and discover a whole new culinary palate, both fresh and fried (and sometimes on a stick).

While night markets and convenience stores highlight the wide diversity in tastes and flavors, they are only the tip of the culinary iceberg. No matter where you go in Taiwan, you’re bound to discover new and exciting meals. Every Taiwanese person has their own peculiar set of tastes that ultimately affect Taiwan’s cuisine. Taiwan’s food culture is in a constant ebb and flow, shifting with the times and tastes of its people. Nonetheless, Taiwan’s rich history and the situation in the increasingly globalized world ensure that no matter where one visits the country, they are bound to find something delicious.

 

Mark Warburton, B.A. International Affairs, Political Science 2023
Sigur Center 2022 Asian Language Fellow
National Taiwan University, Taiwan

Biking 30 KM around Taiwan’s Sun Moon Lake

Enjoying the best of Taiwan by bicycle 🚲🚲🚲 Sun Moon Lake is one of Taiwan’s most beautiful scenic areas, rich in nature, culture, and history. Join me as I take a little tour through lush mountain roads and sweeping lakeside views. 🏞🚵‍♂️🌲

Thank you George Washington University’s Sigur Center for Asian Studies for making it all possible.

 

Mark Warburton, B.A. International Affairs, Political Science 2023
Sigur Center 2022 Asian Language Fellow
National Taiwan University, Taiwan

the gates of Confucius Temple in Taiwan

Summer 2022 Language Fellow – My first few months in Taiwan

Before this summer, I had never gone outside of the country. I had been a scholar of international affairs with no international scholarly experience. My friends, all of who had been out of the country at least once, warned me of the inbound culture shock I was sure to experience. They told stories of shadowy burglars and cunning pickpockets who targeted foreigners or shop vendors who willingly scammed naïve Americans for an extra buck.

“Go to Europe! It’ll feel much more like home. I hear London is very friendly toward Americans.”

“I don’t understand why you have to go to Asia! I hear it is very dangerous.”

They told me that the world was not a friendly place for American tourists. They said I would need to walk carefully, bag and belongings kept tight to my person, were I to avoid becoming another scare-story for other worried-sick tourists.
Nonetheless, despite these stories, I packed my bags and set off to my home away from home on the other side of the world.

Traveling to Taiwan this summer, I was one of 70 students to make the flight across the pacific, the first cohort of international students in over two years since the pandemic started. The program coordinator said we were making history. During the first week of my stay, I explored the far corners of my hotel room, counting the tiles on the ceiling, and waiting for the day I’d be free of the Marriott. The mandatory 7-day quarantine period felt like seven years as I paced around my hotel bed, trying desperately to spur some creative flow. But despite the gorgeous view from my 6th-floor room, there are only so many hours you can watch the clouds before you start to get bored.

Since early 2020, Taiwan has led the world in successful COIVD-19 mitigation practices. Throughout 2020 and 2021, as the rest of the world became bombarded by the Alpha and Omicron variants, Taiwan stayed closed, avoiding the unforeseen loss of life, but at the cost of social frustration and economic slowdown.

Walking along the streets, Taipei felt like a city out of hibernation; preparing for a new life three years deep into the “new normal.” During the majority of the pandemic, the government ordered residents to stay inside, limit contact with others, and if that was not possible, manage their own “social distance” even as the rest of the world forwent their restrictions and ushered in their new normal, albeit with significant growing pains

I traveled with CET, a study abroad program for students looking to improve their language skills in a target region. CET handled all the heavy lifting: housing, insurance, and tuition fees for the language program, amongst other odds and ends that ensured that our trip abroad was as painless as possible. They organized hikes, calligraphy classes, mediation workshops, and a whole host of activities to make students feel both engaged with their host culture and at home with their classmates.

But growing pains from COVID-19 still lingered. Unlike in the United States, where face coverings became a topic of political and social discordance, quickly shelved upon the CDC’s first word of unnecessity, indoor and outdoor mask usage has become the new normal, setting a trend that will likely stay for the foreseeable future. Of course, CET’s reentry into the post-COVID world also necessitated a few changes, such as the withdrawal of organized multiday activities, and a switch from housing with local students to solely with the CET cohort, all of which served as a constant reminder of the on-going COVID-19 pandemic.

Nonetheless, I am incredibly grateful I have been afforded this opportunity. The past two months I’ve spent in Taiwan have been a blast and a well-needed course in cultural immersion. I’m looking forward to spending more time abroad and sharing all of my experiences with friends back home.

 

Mark Warburton, B.A. International Affairs, Political Science 2023
Sigur Center 2022 Asian Language Fellow
National Taiwan University, Taiwan