Navigating Bangalore as an Indian-American Woman Researcher

Arriving at the Kempegowda International Airport in Bangalore in early July felt like I had returned back home. As I exited the airport and stepped into the warm, humid air, juggling three heavy suitcases, I felt physically drained and exhausted. But my mind was overwhelmingly excited at the thought of reconnecting with my grandparents, cousins, aunts, and uncles. As an Indian-American with deep roots in Mysore, Karnataka (about a 3-hour drive from Bangalore), I had spent countless summers in India reconnecting with family and old friends, enjoying delicious foods, immersing myself in cultural traditions and activities, and exploring ancient temples and palaces.

But I knew this visit would be different. This time, I was not just here to relieve my favorite memories; I was here to embark on a new and unfamiliar journey– I was conducting independent field research. The prospect of this new challenge brought with it immense feelings of stress and anxiety due to all the uncertainty that surrounded the process. Questions constantly filled my mind: Will I be able to find enough participants? Am I asking the right questions? Will Indian women want to talk to me? And am I capable of conducting research? However, with the steady support of my family, the continuous encouragement from my peers and advisors, and the unwavering faith my interviewees placed in me, I successfully completed my field research. As a result, this journey quickly became one of my most invaluable learning experiences. In this blog post, I aim to highlight some of the challenges I faced, how I navigated through them, and why the research process is both a rewarding and a privileged experience. 

Once the jet lag wore off and I had spent some quality time with all of my family and friends, I knew it was time to focus on my research. But as I reached out to some of my contacts in India, I quickly realized that the people they had offered to connect me with did not meet the criteria for my study. This was my first challenge and realization- I had no one to interview. After my initial moment of panic, I understood that the best way to navigate this challenge was to turn to those closest to me– my extended family and friends. After explaining the situation, they immediately surrounded me, eager to help. Over the next few hours and days, they made countless phone calls to their friends and family, and soon I had a few interested participants. Additionally, my dad, who has been my biggest supporter throughout this process, also contacted his contacts, who offered invaluable assistance. 

This first challenge taught me two important ideas about the research process. First, not everything will go according to plan. While this concept was significantly emphasized by all of my advisors and fellow researchers, it is one thing to hear it and quite another to experience it. However, it is important to note that if and when things fall apart, it is more than okay to ask for help because research is often not a solo process, and good research frequently relies on the support and contributions of others. In my case, it was the unwavering support and generosity of my family and friends in India. 

Once I contacted my research participants and scheduled my interviews, I assumed the rest of the process would be seamless. Little did I know at that point that I would be terribly wrong. My next challenge was navigating Bangalore, a city with a dense population, heavy traffic, a complicated public transportation system (since I was not a local and could not read in the native language—Kannada), and a place where GPS maps were not always accurate or available. 

Fortunately, my dad accompanied me on my journey to Bangalore. Despite having his own busy schedule, my dad graciously took on the role of my informal tour guide and support system in the city. Together, we caught many public buses, I learned how to use the Bangalore metro system, and we spent quite a few hours navigating Bangalore traffic—a challenge that locals seemed to handle with ease. 

Even though the GPS maps were not always accurate, the people of Bangalore were incredibly helpful in showing my dad and me how to navigate some of the newer parts of the city. They were also extremely kind and personable. Sometimes, they would go beyond just giving us directions; they would also accompany us to our destination to ensure we reached the right place. 

While navigation was still challenging at times, it pushed me to think on my feet, taught me how to problem-solve quickly, and gave me the opportunity to connect with locals—an experience that made me even more excited to meet my interviewees. 

After successfully navigating through the city and arriving at my interview locations, it was finally time to interview my research participants. That’s when I encountered my third challenge- I needed to ensure that my interviewees felt comfortable enough to open up and share their stories. Although I had previously talked to some of my interviewees, established a level of trust, and assured them that all of my data would be anonymized, I also knew that if I were in their position, it might still be difficult to fully open up to a researcher I had only recently met. 

Thus, I revisited my professors’ and advisors’ advice and then brainstormed ways to create a more comfortable environment. I decided to begin all of my interviews by letting the participants ask me any questions they wanted—whether about my research or my personal life. I realized that by providing a space where my participants could kind of “interview” me before I interviewed them, I established a mutual sense of trust, creating a more comfortable and safer environment for both of us. 

While not all of my interviewees chose to ask me questions, many expressed appreciation at the end of the interview for having the opportunity to do so. Through these interactions, I quickly learned that being a researcher comes with a profound amount of responsibility. These women trusted me with their stories and personal experiences, which, for some of them, involved traumatic experiences, including harassment. 

As a researcher, it is immensely important to recognize that conducting interviews is a significant privilege; it involves people sharing deeply personal aspects of their lives. I also learned that it is crucial to be open and willing to answer questions in return. Doing so creates a shared learning experience for everyone involved.  

Ultimately, valuable field research does not come without its challenges. However, for me, it was precisely those challenges that showed me that I was resilient and capable, thus making the overall experience far more rewarding. Field research truly humbled me and granted me the privilege to listen to the stories of Indian women, connect with wonderful people, and deepen my understanding of the country that is my second home.

Aishwarya Nagabhushan, B.A. in International Affairs

Sigur Center 2024 Research Fellow Fellow

India

A picture of Old Karuizawa Ginza Street with many cafes, bakeries, and souvenir shops

A Mountain Trip to Escape the Heat

In late June, I took a three-day trip to Karuizawa, a historic mountain resort town in Nagano prefecture. People often visit Karuizawa to escape the summer heat, or to ski during the winters. Here, one can enjoy the scenery of forests, waterfalls, and even an active volcano known as Mount Asama, which towers 2,568 meters into the sky. 

As I visited right at the beginning of the rainy season, I walked through heavy downpour for the first part of the trip. However, even with the rain, I thoroughly enjoyed the quaint atmosphere of the town, with its mixture of Japanese and Western influences (due, in turn, to the historical presence of Christian missionaries). Below is a picture of an area known as Old Karuizawa Ginza Street, which is lined with many cafes, bakeries, and souvenir shops. In the backdrop, one can also catch a glimpse of the mountains surrounding the area.

A picture of Old Karuizawa Ginza Street with many cafes, bakeries, and souvenir shops

Fortunately, the rain stopped in the latter half of the trip, and I was able to enjoy some beautiful sunlit scenery of the surrounding nature. Below is a picture of a river taken from above a nameless bridge.

A picture of an unnamed river from above

The drier weather during the latter part of the trip also allowed me to take a walk along the trail leading to the top of Mount Asama. While I was unable to make it to the end of the trail, I was still able to smell the sulfur fumes from the volcano. (The last time Mount Asama had erupted was in 2019.)

A picture of a green trail

Below is a picture of the volcano from below. Hopefully, I am able to make it to the top the next time I visit.

A picture of a volcano from affair

The highlight of my trip was the Shiraito Waterfall located just north of the Karuizawa town. The waterfall is not very tall, but it is known for its distinctive width (a 70-meter arc, which I was unable to do justice to with my phone camera). The name “Shiraito” means “white thread(s),” which describes the appearance of the falling water. The water is said to come from the rainwater that falls on Mount Asama, which subsequently takes six years to arrive at the waterfall through underground channels.

A picture of a waterfall

The path leading up to the waterfall was also very scenic, and the air was chilled by the rushing stream running along the path. There were many tourists there, despite it being a Monday.

A picture of a bridge with some tourists walking over it
A picture of tourists walking along a trail

Overall, I highly recommend Karuizawa to anyone who has a chance to visit Japan—especially during the scorching months of Japanese summer!

Mayuko Maeda, Ph.D. in Political Science

Sigur Center 2024 Research Fellow

Japan

A picture of a bride and groom at an altar in pink lighting

Experiencing a Wedding in India

Indian culture is often most well-known abroad through elaborate and festive weddings. From the mehndi to the mangal phera, Indian weddings are full of tradition, family, and fashion. The different events each serve a distinct purpose in joining the families, preparing the groom and bride, and celebrating. The multi-day affair, especially at Marwadi weddings, is all-encompassing and gives a look into the cuisine, history, and religion of Rajasthan. 

While conducting my fieldwork in Jaipur I took three days off to attend my Nani’s (maternal grandmother) brother’s grandson’s wedding. Although it may seem strange for me to be invited to such a distant relative’s nuptials, it is very normal in Indian culture for the bride and groom to not know all their guests; traditionally the wedding is geared towards the parents and family rather than an individual focus on the couple. Indian families, like mine, are huge so it is common for hundreds of guests to be invited. Weddings like these become a test in remembering my relatives’ names, specific honorifics, and exactly how I am related to them. 

I was very excited to attend this wedding because I had never attended one in India before. Furthermore, I am Marwadi which is an ethnic group from Rajasthan so I was eager to learn more about the wedding traditions and customs of my culture in the place where my ancestors originated. 

A picture of people sitting at a table from behind
A fountain outside at nighttime

Caption: Family at the Sagai and the courtyard at Rambagh Palace 

The first event of the wedding weekend was the Sagai which is most akin to an engagement party. The couple will exchange rings which more significantly reflects the consent of both families to the marriage. It’s an opportunity for both families to meet, get to know each other, and historically this was when the bride and groom met for the first time. The Sagai I attended was held at a Rambagh Mahal — a beautiful palace that was formerly the residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur. This event was more relaxed and was basically an opportunity for everyone who traveled for the wedding to meet relatives and friends, have a small ring ceremony, and eat a ton of really great food. 

A woman smiling and having henna applied to her hands

The second event was the Mehndi which is where the families –mostly the women– have intricate henna applied to their hands. Mehndi is the Hindi word for henna which is a natural and temporary skin dye made from the leaves of the Henna tree. The groom is also meant to participate but men nowadays apply a nominal amount if any. The bride, on the other hand, will have mehndi up to her elbows and also on her feet. Traditionally the mehndi is a way of wishing the bride good health and prosperity as she makes her journey on to marriage. This event was again a way for the guests to all get together, celebrate, and get their mehndi done in preparation for the wedding festivities.

A large crowd of people, some standing and some sitting, at a wedding
A young woman wearing a lehenga

Next was the Sagan and Sangeet. These events signify the beginning of the wedding festivities and are also considered pre-wedding parties. While the sagai and mehndi are calmer, the sangeet is meant to be a joyfully loud and boisterous celebration. There are choreographed dances from both families, bride and groom, beautiful and bold outfits, and tons of food. Older women wore gorgeous saris while younger women, including myself, donned intricate and heavy lehengas. The bride and groom chose a Bollywood theme for this party and all of the decorations pictured them as famous heroes and heroines from classic Bollywood movies. The groom tried his very best at dancing in front of hundreds of people but the bride’s sisters did a much better job. The buffet options were never-ending with fusion options, desserts, traditional Indian food, snacks, drinks, and passed appetizers. I was stuffed 30 minutes in.

A picture of a street covered in flood waters

The next day was the day of the wedding and was supposed to be the haldi. Haldi is the Hindi word for turmeric and during this event, a turmeric and yogurt paste is applied to the skin of the bride and groom by their families to give them a radiant glow before their wedding ceremony. Unfortunately, it is currently monsoon in Rajasthan and a huge rainstorm completely flooded the streets meaning the haldi had to be canceled.

A group of people happily dancing
A group of men standing in pink lighting
Two women standing next to each other in pink lighting
A group of women sitting together in pink lighting
A walkway to an altar in pink lighting

Caption: My family sitting in the wedding venue

Later that evening when the streets cleared we made our way back to the venue for the Bharat, Jai Mala, and Phere— also known as the wedding ceremony. The groom’s family (me!) all gathered outside of the venue for the Bharat. Traditionally, the Bharat is the groom’s procession to arriving at the bride’s home; sometimes they will enter on elephants or horses and always with dancing, drums, and lots of people. The groom rode into his Bharat on a vintage Rolls Royce. We slowly and loudly made our way to the unbelievably gorgeous wedding tent: decorated with flowers, chandeliers, and soft pink lighting. It took a while for the bride to arrive so we all took this as an opportunity to rest after the Bharat, marvel at the tent, take photos, and eat the catered chat (Indian snack foods) in the neighboring tent. There were imported fruits, masala chai, pakoras (fritters), noodles, soup, pasta, and so many desserts. The bride arrived about an hour later with her entourage wearing an incredibly ornate lehenga that looked beautiful. While the wedding party sat down for the long ceremony the rest of the guests walked around eating, enjoying each other’s company, gossiping, and getting more photos. The ceremony was mostly ignored by the guests. A pandit sits with thebride, groom, and their families reciting prayers and performing specific rituals. Most important are the saat phere (seven rounds). Each round a bride and groom take around the holy fire symbolizes a vow that the couple has to follow. Each phera signifies a vow that couples have to take for eternity. After that, they were married! The rest of the night was a gigantic celebration with dancing until all hours of the night.

A picture of a bride and groom at an altar in pink lighting

Reflecting on my experience at this wedding, I realized how deeply rooted and vibrant Indian traditions are, especially through marriage. The elaborate ceremonies, the familial connections, and the shared joy showcased the richness of my heritage. Despite the modern influences and changing times, these rituals remain a cornerstone, providing tradition and a sense of community. Attending my bhaiya’s wedding was more than just a festive occasion; it was a look into my Marwadi roots and the values and traditions that shape our culture. Through these celebrations, we not only honor our past but also build connections for the future, ensuring that our culture thrives for generations to come.

Author: Diya Mehta, B.A. International Affairs, Sigur Summer Research Fellow, India

A Lesson Learned from my Study Abroad

Hello everybody, it’s been about a week since my last video was recorded and I am quickly approaching my last few weeks in Taiwan and this will be my last blog post as a result. With this in mind I thought it would be a useful exercise to use this blog post as a sort of lessons learned activity to both help me make better choices in these last few weeks and to help someone else in the future possibly. 

So I figured I would just first start off elaborating on who I am and what this will be mostly useful for, as in my situation I am fairly introverted and thus the advice and mistakes I will mention are mostly focused around that. 

First, establishing the level of introvert that I am, though this is kind of a confidence builder for people who also have had it as bad before, is that I used to be in a position where I’d freeze up immediately upon being in a conversation I didn’t expect. This was never a good situation but throughout my time in my undergrad I eventually brute forced my way out of this stage. But the echoes of this problem still remain, for example my main struggle today is in initiating a conversation, for whatever reasons I’m often too shy or panicked to just walk up to some and say hello, whether this be at networking events or something less formal. 

Now if you’re in a similar position to myself this is obviously a problem when trying to establish yourself in a foreign country, especially since you’re using a language you might not be fully confident in. With this in mind I have found it helpful to try and look back at steps that helped me get out of the super introverted stage. For example, if initiating conversations is challenging, try just getting smaller, manageable goals for yourself. Aim to start one conversation a week with someone new. It doesn’t have to be long or even much of a conversation at all. You just have to push yourself to do it, then just keep gradually increasing that type of interaction each week and it can help build confidence and make the foreign settings feel less intimidating.

Next, you should try and look for social events or groups that align with your interests. You don’t have to go on nightly group outings to get a rich experience, even if it’s just in a small study group. These smaller activities allow for deeper conversations that can help improve your language skills more, these can be anything from looking for posters for on campus activities for your program, or just looking for activities at cool locations, for example, the national theater in Taiwan often had smaller events that have been easy to attend with a small friend group, and most places should have at least one activity that is similar!

Though with this in mind, if you’re someone like me whose social battery runs out pretty quick, it’s also important to try and balance out social activities with time to recharge. You don’t need to be doing things every day to get a rich experience and you could just end up spoiling it for yourself and make sure not to put down the success you’ve had! No matter how small your accomplishments might seem, at the end of the day you’re navigating a foreign country while using a foreign language so even just a small conversation going well should be seen as a great success. 

Now as my time in Taiwan comes closer and closer to an end, I hope these reflections and tips can offer some guidance to those who may find themselves in a similar position to my own. Remember, personal growth comes from pushing past your comfort zones! (but not too much!) and every small achievement is a step toward greater confidence. Thank you for joining me on this journey, and best of luck to everyone navigating their own adventures abroad!

Cole Rubin, M.A. in Asian Studies

Sigur Center 2024 Language Fellow

Taiwan

A picture of the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall at daytime

My First Few Weeks in Taiwan

My first three weeks in Taiwan have been an incredibly new experience to me. This has been my first time actually living outside the country and I was filled with anxiety as to what would happen as to when I would arrive. I still remember the worried look on my family’s faces as we all had dinner together before I left. I laughed away their anxiousness at the time but underneath I was really just as nervous. During my time in my undergrad I was notoriously shy and not exactly a person you would expect to go out of there way to spend 8 weeks in a foreign country It wasn’t all to long ago since and while I had moved past that phase in my life some of it still lingers in me to this day.

That moment stepping off the plane was one of awe and bewilderment not exactly as to my surroundings, but I guess I never really took it all in till that point: that is I was an ocean away from my closest friends and family and in an unfamiliar environment. But having taken the moment to have caught my bearings I quickly made my way through the airport and successfully called a taxi, the trip would take a bit over an hour and on the way I got to understand the physical differences almost immediately, this was not the anything like the flat Salt River Valley or the victorian architecture lining the Potomac, I was faced with the tropics for the first time, a sea of green unending in its depths while the occasional traditional structure would be darted along the road, the country flashing between ancient to modern as I entered into the city of Taipei. Eventually finding myself at the on campus hoteI, which also happened to be where I would be taking my classes. 

The program I am in is an eight week intensive program and it definitely has been grueling so far, not that I can’t cope with the workload but there’s not as much time to explore the country as I had hoped. Be that as it may I still have my outings even if they are more local then I had hoped. Just last weekend I made a trip to the Chaing-Kai Shek memorial and spent most of the day there around the museum sections and admiring the courtyard and surrounding gardens. Besides this the program also includes a large assortment of activities on the weekends which has so far included things like simple tours and Chinese cooking classes to more unique excursions to the Taiwanese countryside where we would get a bit sized experience of working at a tea leaf farm and brewing our very own batch, which I found quite fun.

Although I had these initial anxieties I have come to work past the growing pains and enjoy Taiwan. Forgoing the weather of course which while I was warned about I was not fully prepared for, with the hot humid air feeling painfully similar to an all too familiar Arizona summer.  

Be that as it may, I am incredibly grateful for this opportunity. COVID prevented my hopes of studying abroad when I was in my undergrad so this was an experience I was desperately wanting for a long time and so far it has not disappointed. Taiwan has proved to be a beautiful country, especially around the outskirts of Taipei and further out counties like Yilan where the natural aspect of Taiwan could be more appreciated. As far as first impressions are concerned, I’d happily return after the fact if given the chance, though I may choose a season with better weather! But at the moment I’m looking forward to spending more time here and finding new experiences as I continue to explore Taiwan! 

Cole Rubin, M.A. in Asian Studies

Sigur Center 2024 Language Fellow

Taiwan

A photo of the Taiwan Skyline at Night
A selfie with three people sitting at a table

Tracing back the memory lane, Summer 2023

Prerna Dokania
Economics PhD Candidate, GWU

Early childhood care and education (ECCE) is a growing focus sector in developing countries. Quite like the HeadStart program in the USA, developing countries like Bangladesh, India, Sub-Saharan Africa, Pakistan have had some ECCE policy in place. This sector has gained prominence in recent years due to the proven importance of early childhood human capital formation in the long run labor market and developmental outcomes. India’s early childhood education program, called the Anganwadi system, is one such policy framework within which children from age 0-6 years and pregnant and lactating women are supported in the form of supplementary nutrition, immunization services and health and education provision, monitoring and guidance. My summer research project aimed at surveying such ECCE providers, referred to as Anganwadi workers, from a semi-urban district – Begusarai, in Bihar, India. The objective was to survey a randomly selected sample of ~ 450 Anganwadi workers and collect data on their perceptions related to functioning of the Anganwadi system at the local level and assess their content-based knowledge of ECCE activities.
In this blog, I want to share my field work experiences and some tips for future survey-based projects.

Bihar is one of the biggest states in India supporting ~ 9 percent of India’s population and infamously part of the BIMARU states (translated in Hindi as ‘sick’ states/ economically disadvantage states). As per the latest national family survey in India, Bihar has an average fertility rate of 3 children per woman compared to the country’s average of 2. This makes Bihar a suitable candidate for understanding the challenges faced by the ECCE workers at the local level. This was going to be my first time in Bihar, even though I had spent my early teens in Jharkhand, a state that was separated from erstwhile Bihar in the year 2000. People in Bihar live in a predominantly patriarchal society set-up with a less than 5% female labor force participation rate. I had anticipated that surveying groups of women in Bihar could be challenging given the cultural/social barriers and had raised quite a few eyebrows for picking Begusarai, Bihar as my study site. 

Contrary to my priors, I was pleasantly surprised to witness women at the forefront of the social welfare department (the government body responsible for ECCE policy implementation). The organizational structure is as follows: a district is typically divided into projects, which are further subdivided into sectors, and Anganwadi centers, respectively. Given the target population of the policy, most of the organizational leadership in the department were comprised of women. I conducted surveys in randomly selected sectors and, hence, I had to coordinate with multiple office bearers before planning every survey session. The women leaders I met were very driven, knowledgeable, and resourceful. They had several questions for me; What is the purpose of your survey? Why do you want to survey Anganwadi workers in the absence of their supervisors? What is the potential outcome of your research? Why did I choose their project for my study? These questions felt like a blessing. The project officers seemed interested in the research and had several stories to share with me. Some of them had a lot of encouraging insights on my survey questions and experiment implementation as well. I am grateful to each one of the project heads and the sector heads for helping me organize the survey sessions with ease. One important field-survey lesson here was that I could have prepared an informal questionnaire for such interactions. I also realized that preparing for field-work implementation takes a lot more time (other than writing surveys or research hypothesis) and being at the study-site one-two weeks in advance is instrumental for securing official permissions, scheduling, procuring material and training your team.

A group of people standing and looking at the camera
A selfie with three people sitting at a table

The one with the team! Pilot Day; Preparing for Day One

An obvious tip that all field researchers have in their experience book is – Pilot your survey! Revise the survey! I could not agree more. I would say, if possible, Pilot again and revise yet again! I saw my survey material metamorphose in one week. I had spent at least a month refining my survey questions sitting behind my laptop in the comfort of my office in Washington DC. But the perspective you get from the field pilot experience is just four-fold. The interaction with respondents is crucial to understand how they are perceiving each question. I had hired a local field management team, and together we spent hours discussing each question in detail and modifying the exact language of the questions. After the pilot, we revisited our surveys. Some questions were dropped, some were enhanced with pictures/emojis, and some were rearranged to facilitate the survey design. 

Another big lesson that I learnt from this field experience is regarding survey language translation. My surveys were going to be in Hindi, but I had been editing the English version more than the Hindi version while I was off-site. I had discussed the English version of surveys with my academic advisors and colleagues. However, since I had the benefit of knowing Hindi, I feel I could have saved a lot of time if I had been editing the Hindi version of my surveys instead of perfecting the English version first and then translating it to Hindi. Thus, if the researcher knows the local language, I highly recommend making the edits in the local language first and then translating it into English for IRB purposes. Maybe, being an ambidexter would have helped! 

Once we got the ball rolling, everything started falling in place. Every day was a new location, sometimes covering two sessions in a day. A lab-in-the-field project can have lots of moving pieces for a typical session, in terms of having paper forms printed, keeping cash handy for reimbursements (if the surveys are incentivized with cash payments), organizing food packets, carrying spare stationary for respondents and so on. It was a through-and-through learning experience for me and my team. You must maintain inventory of all such items, and even a simple excel sheet can go a long way to help you be organized. 

A picture of a gate with Hindi writing
A picture of a room with pink furniture
A picture of people sitting at a table

Various survey locations; Begusarai, Bihar, India.

With fieldwork, another important thing to consider is the timing of the survey. The weather was not always on our side. Initially the temperatures were as high as 95°F and as we neared completion of the project, monsoon season had hit. We even encountered waterlogging up to 2 feet on two survey occasions. One should account for such local factors before planning field-based surveys. For instance, months like March-April could be more favorable than July-August in tropical regions of India. I was running almost a week behind my schedule, but usually for larger scale projects there one should keep more buffer. Most of the study locations comprised of a small government building used for regular meetings or a close-by Anganwadi center itself. Some survey locations were spacious, some had proper seating arrangements, some had electricity, while some didn’t have such convenient features. Notwithstanding these barriers, the survey subjects and my team showed utmost resilience and cooperated. We were able to complete the planned project and surveyed 457 respondents in total. 

Amidst the daily conundrum of preparing for and travelling to a new location, one constant feature was the enthusiasm of the survey respondents. Typical sessions used to be 3-3.5 hours long and often we had to wait up to 1 hour beyond the scheduled time for all invited respondents to arrive. Nevertheless, the subjects showed patience and had each other’s back as they called and insisted their fellow mates to join us sooner! There were no respondents who did not consent to participate in the study. I was most touched by the hospitality of the subjects. During one of the sessions, the respondents served us a home-cooked sumptuous meal at the end of the session. I wish I had taken a picture! In another session a respondent, who received 130 INR and a book as the final compensation from the research experiment, returned with 3 pens for me and my team to express her gratitude. It was a very humble experience, to say the least! These women who have been working for the social welfare of their communities, at a modest honorarium/stipend, were already spending their valuable time with us and still had a sense of sharing. This survey was more than just a survey for them. Somebody had come over to know more about them, discuss their work with them, and it made them feel more motivated and encouraged.

A picture of women sitting at a table
A woman receiving a certificate

The one with respondents! (Pics shared by respondents)

As I proceed to analyze the data I have collected, I carry these wonderful memories and wish to expand the scope of my research with a follow-up study. 

PS: Thank you for reading my blog! To read up more on the actual findings of this research project, stay tuned to my webpage  https://sites.google.com/view/prernadokania/home.

Bio: Prerna Dokania is a PhD candidate in Economics at the George Washington University, Washington DC. She is a Sigur Center Summer 2023 Research Fellow. To learn more about her, visit her website: https://sites.google.com/view/prernadokania/home%20. 

A picture of a neighborhood in Indonesia

From Under the Overpass to Higher Education

Indonesia’s present 3% increase in annual urbanization rate and rapid pace of rural-to-urban in-migration has accompanied the expansion of urban poverty. Currently, Indonesia’s 22% of the population (29 million) are living in urban slums alongside train tracks, riverbanks, and canals that are often flood-prone (Burger et al., 2019; Kusumaningrum et al., 2021). Importantly, the 29 million urban poor populations include the children living in Jakarta slums who I have encountered and taught every school recess since 2016. I have had a keen passion for ensuring quality and equal learning opportunities for those children, and thanks to the generous support of the Sigur Center for Asian Studies, I could have an opportunity to return to Jakarta and meet with the children again this summer. Over one month of staying there, I conducted interviews with children to understand their experiences in education at an NGO learning center while providing them with basic Korean language lessons. 

Every visit to Jakarta always brought me with new insights. However, this summer research trip was particularly special and unforgettable as I had a chance to visit my students’ houses thanks to their parents’ invitation and listen to the stories of volunteer teachers who used to be on the streets. Both home visits and teachers’ stories reaffirmed to me that urban slum children are not deprived in terms of lack of educational opportunities and are not social malice. In contrast to the predominant deficit view, the children are supported to learn and have high motivation to pursue higher education.   

Visiting students’ homes: Kontrakan & under the overpass

After walking the windy and narrow streets surrounded by small warungs (family-owned street stalls) and going through the hustle-and-bustle traffic noise, two NGO teachers and I finally reached one of my students’ houses. It was quite challenging to find the place since the house was unseen from the main road. We had to walk deep inside a small alley behind warteg (food stall). My student’s parents warmly welcomed us to come inside the house. The house was kontrakan, a honeycomb-like rental house where residents (often family groups) rent each room of the small house on a monthly or a yearly basis, which was a typical way of living among my students studying at the NGO learning center. I sat down in the shared living room with the parents and NGO teachers, and we spoke about our student’s learning conditions. During our conversation, from sensing our presence, one child after another child woke up in the rooms and came out to the living room where we were. 

A picture of any alley in Indonesia

Figure 1. The narrow alley attached to the main road had to be passed to reach kontrakan

We then visited another student’s house. After taking an angkot (mini-van-like shared taxis) and crossing the road where cars were running, we reached an overpass. When we walked deeper and further under the overpass, we encountered a small community. Houses were built with wooden boards, and adults and children were sorting the piles of pet plastic bottles that they collected into sacks. Chickens and cats were wandering around them. Noticing our visit, children (including our students) walked towards us for salim (hand-kissing to show respect to the elders) and Mrs. Putri, one of the student’s mothers, invited us to her house. The house was self-made by her husband with wooden boards, and the rectangular space was practically equipped with a kitchen and drawer at each corner. Mrs. Putri then showed us around the house, including the self-made well where she does her laundry with neighbors.

A picture of a neighborhood in Indonesia

Figure 2. There was a community under the overpass living in self-made houses.

 

A picture of clothes hanging on a line

Figure 3. Mrs. Putri guided me and the NGO teachers to the well where she does her laundry. 

The two formats of houses were typical living spaces of my students as their parents mostly work as ngamen (street singers), pedagang asongan (street vendors), drivers, construction laborers, and more earning meager income. While economic hardships, limited physical living spaces, and housing insecurities might be the facets that I could understand, what was the most inspiring to me was the neighborhood’s close interactions and mutual care of children. In both houses (i.e., kontrakan and under the overpass) and during our conversations with students’ parents, neighbors were looking after children by feeding them, checking children if they attended schools/learning centers, and joining our conversations with parents with the interest in discussing children’s well-being. From seeing the interactions, I understood that such supportive neighborhoods have enabled children to continue attending the NGO learning center, keep up with their academic motivation, and gain socio-emotional skills. 

Respecting volunteer teachers as role models: Towards advanced education

In addition to the neighborhoods’ contribution to fostering a positive environment for children’s education, the stories of volunteer teachers and the teachers’ interactions with children further boosted children’s motivation for coming to the learning center. At the NGO learning center, three teachers were especially respected by students for their “successful stories” and their close interactions with students. Through the one-on-one conversations I had with the three teachers, I realized how crucial their presence at the learning center for the students. Those three teachers had commonalities in that they used to live on the streets and study at the learning center, and now they teach as volunteer teachers after graduating from high school. 

The current head coordinator of the NGO learning center, Teacher Bintang used to help his parents earn extra income by playing a small guitar on the streets and bagging money since he was very young. He however gradually stopped street life after starting to attend the learning center since he was in second grade in primary school. He said that the learning at the center which he began at the suggestion of an NGO teacher, whom he met on the streets, changed him to understand the direction in life and motivated him to complete his high school education. Another teacher, Teacher Indah, who currently works as an accountant at an IT company even completed her high school and university education with the scholarships granted by the learning center. Teacher Arief who is now employed after graduating high school is still living in the kontrakan adjacent to some students’ houses, giving much care and attention and listening to everyone’s concerns like a big brother. 

The three teachers have shared reasons motivating them to volunteer to teach every weekend. They hoped for children in slums (1) to have equal learning opportunities and happiness as their non-slum peers; (2) to live off from streets by pursuing higher education; and (3) to receive love and attention that they may lack from their busy parents. The teachers’ hopes indeed have been reflected and conveyed through their teaching and interactions with students at the center. According to students, they have increased academic motivation and willingness to attend the center by acknowledging their teachers’ caring words and considering the teachers as respectable role models whom they hope to emulate. 

Conclusion: Key takeaway

Visiting students’ homes enabled me to better understand my students’ economically difficult situations. However, a more important understanding I gained was that such situations neither limit students’ learning nor justify their marginalization which is often a dominant view towards children in urban slums. Instead, urban slum neighborhoods’ collected care has been a protective factor supporting children’s socio-emotional and academic learning. Furthermore, the interactions that volunteer teachers have with students have been additional enablers for students, who see the teachers as their role models, to recognize their own possibilities of earning jobs outside the streets and pursuing higher education. Therefore, the important lesson of this research trip was clear: Jakarta slums were not a place of marginalization that needs help, but it is the place where children access learning opportunities and care, and ultimately find motivation for learning and the direction of life. 

Note. I used pseudonyms for all names in this blog post to protect their anonymity. 

References 

Burger, N., Glick, P. J., Perez-Arce, F., Rabinovich, L., Rana, Y. R. L., Srinivasan, S., & Yoong, J. (2013). Indonesia: Urban poverty and program review. World Bank Group.  https://documents.worldbank.org/en/publication/documents-reports/documentdetail/263151468275080963/indonesia-urban-poverty-analysis-and-program-review

Kusumaningrum, S., Siagian, C., Sari, W. L., Adhi, A. A., Wandasari, W., Febrianto, R., & Tieken, S. (2021). The situation of children and young people in Indonesian cities. Pusat Kajian dan Advokasi Perlindungan dan Kualitas Hidup Anak Universitas Indonesia (PUSKAPA), United Nations International Children’s Emergency Fund, & Badan Perencanaan Pembangunan Nasional (BAPPENAS). https://www.unicef.org/indonesia/media/12166/file/The%20Situation%20Analysis%20of%20Children%20and%20Young%20People%20in%20Indonesian%20Cities.pdf 

By InJung Cho, Sigur Center Summer 2023 Field Research Grant Fellow. Cho is a Ph.D. student in Education at George Washington University. Cho researches educational inequality and learner identity of children in urban slums of Jakarta, Indonesia. 

 

A picture of a blue bay with green islands

Beyond Towering Skyscrapers: Hiking Adventures in Hong Kong

Beyond the towering skyscrapers, Hong Kong is a haven for nature adventurers and enthusiasts. The city boasts diverse landscapes, ranging from lush forests and serene beaches to rugged mountains that offer an array of hiking trails. These trails provide an amazing blend of urban vibrancy and natural beauty. You can wander through dense woodlands in the morning and gaze at the city lights from a mountain peak in the evening. These trails showcase Hong Kong’s remarkable ability to merge the natural world with modern living.

Hong Kong’s hiking trails cater to all levels of fitness and experience, regardless of how seasoned or inexperienced you are in hiking. From the famous Dragon’s Back trail, which offers stunning coastal views, to the Lion Rock hike with panoramic city vistas, there’s a trail for everyone. Hiking in Hong Kong isn’t just about physical activity, but also an exploration of the city’s cultural history. Many trails pass by historical landmarks, ancient temples, and traditional villages, providing insight into the city’s rich heritage and offering an opportunity to connect with the past.

During my fieldwork in Hong Kong, I took a day off to explore a famous trail called Poben Chau, situated near the eastern dam of the Man Yee Reservoir in Sai Kung. It falls within the boundaries of the Hong Kong Global Geopark, an area known for its unique geological features and natural landscapes. This hiking route not only provided me a chance to explore the scenic beauty of Hong Kong’s countryside but also allowed me to observe interesting rock formations, geological structures, and other natural features that showcase the region’s geological history (see pictures below).

A picture of a blue bay with green islands
A picture of the cliffside

To hike in this area, the difficulty level of the trails depends on the specific route you take. I chose a route with a difficulty level of four, which required thorough preparation before embarking on the hike. In general, wearing appropriate hiking footwear and clothing, and bringing sufficient water, snacks, and any necessary equipment for comfort and safety, are a must. Along my route, I noticed some sections with “danger” signs. For safety considerations and for those seeking a deeper understanding of the terrain, flora, and fauna, guided hiking tours are a fantastic option.

Hong Kong’s hiking tours offer a captivating blend of nature, culture, and adventure. These trails cater to every preference, whether you are a solo explorer, a family seeking quality time, or a group of friends looking for adventure. So, gear up, set out, and let the enchanting journey begin!

Jingwen Zheng, PhD in Public Policy and Administration

Sigur Center 2023 Research Fellow

Hong Kong